Welcome to Benchmark.
Today, we're gonna talk about cables.
We're gonna talk about snake oil
and, you know, is there such a thing as snake oil cables,
or
are these claims
that that we hear,
about cables
changing the sound of our audio system? Are these are these true? Should we buy into that?
Should we buy the
$500
cables,
the $5,000
cables,
the $20,000
cables?
Are these gonna make a difference in the way our system sounds?
Well, I would contend that if the cable
makes
a change in the way your system sounds,
it's a sign that you've got a cable that's not transparent. You've got a cable that's in some way
changing
the audio.
And so cables have a very specific
purpose, and that is to get signal
as clean as possible
from point A to point B.
And
you should not be thinking of your cables as a way
to tune your system. Now let me give you an analogy. So let's suppose
that,
you're a designer of race cars.
Okay. And you've got an engine control unit, and that's communicating with the various sensors on the engine.
And, what kind of cables are you going to use to connect those? You're looking for
a highly reliable cable. You're looking for a cable that can withstand the,
the environment that,
that it's gonna be exposed to in in the race car. So
it's gotta be
resistant to high temperature. It's gotta be durable. It's gotta be resistant to abrasion. It's gotta be properly
dressed in the,
in the chassis.
But what I'm not going to do is I'm not going to select different cables
to try to tune my engine performance.
I'm gonna select the cable that gets the signal from point a to point b,
and then I'm going to adjust my engine control unit
to tune
my engine. So,
what I see a lot of times in audiophile circles is is this mentality
that we're going to tune
our audio system
using exotic cables.
And,
what I'd like you to think about is that really the purpose of the cables
is is not a tuning device, but the purpose of the cables is to be as transparent
as possible.
So,
if you're trying to
change your the way your system sounds, one of the first things you should do is think about
speaker placement,
listening
position placement.
Think about your room.
Think about the speakers themselves.
And then work your way down the chain
and and think about
various
parts of the chain,
the electronic chain, the
the amplifier,
the preamplifier,
your DDA converter,
and,
even,
your streaming device and,
what files you're you're streaming or what
CDs or other material, vinyl,
whatever you're playing,
all the way to your source device.
The very
smallest
incremental changes are actually gonna come from the cables themselves. Now, does this mean that cables
don't matter at all? No, they very much do
matter. If I use
the wrong type of cable on a digital signal, for example,
if I use
an RCA cable that's not a coaxial
cable, it's not a 75 ohm cable,
and I use that cable to hook up my SPIDIF digital coaxial
signal from,
maybe a CD player to an out outboard D to A converter.
If I use the wrong kind of cable,
I may find that at certain sample rates, that cable just plain doesn't work.
And that's because of
the cable reflections
down that cable and back
because the impedance doesn't match.
And so this is very important
in a digital cable
that in a digital audio system,
coaxial cables need to be 75 ohm coaxial cables. You don't wanna use 50 ohm
coax,
in in an audio system because the inputs and outputs are,
are terminated at 75 ohms.
I've got
coaxial cables
out on the bench
that are designed for RF testing.
And,
those cables are all set are all 50 ohm cables.
My RF test equipment
is
designed with
50
ohm output impedance and 50 ohm
terminating impedances.
And
if I put a 75 ohm cable
into
my RF gear out on the bench,
I'm gonna have all sorts of problems. I'm gonna have erroneous measurements. I'm gonna have signal loss.
I'm gonna have reflections.
And so it's important
in a digital environment
to use the proper
cable impedance.
Now,
one of the things that was done in the early days of digital audio is
somebody had the brilliant idea that it would be wonderful to be able to use
XLR cables for digital audio. So they said, well, gee, let's put digital audio on an XLR connector
and, we can use all of our existing
XLR cables and we can send digital audio
around the studio
with
our existing cables. Well, it turned out to be a really bad idea
because
none of those cables were the correct impedance.
And
so, we very quickly learned as an industry that
that those cables needed to be
matched impedance.
They needed to be 110
ohm
twisted pair using standard XLR
connectors,
but,
a very different wire inside. And so, if you go to our website, you'll see that we sell XLR cables for analog audio, and we sell a completely
different
kind of XLR cable for digital audio. And,
just to keep those
easy to identify,
we sell all of our digital
cables with a blue jacket on them. We can get them in any color we wanted to, but we we
ordered the cable with a with a blue jacket so that
the digital cables
are easy to identify and easy to separate from the analog cables that we're going to use
for line level signals and for microphone signals.
So there's an instance where the type of cable you use is is very, very important.
Now let me tell you a little story about a a trade show that we did.
We were
sharing a room with, several other vendors. There was a speaker vendor there. There were we had our electronics there,
and there was another vendor that was a cable vendor. So,
you know, okay. We're gonna
we'll split the, the cost of the,
of the trade showroom,
three ways and, you know, cable guy will bring his cables in, we'll bring our electronics in.
We really like the speakers and so we're very happy about that. So,
cable guy comes in and he's got he's got a pair of speaker cables that are
obviously made out of, welding cable.
So, maybe a thousand strands of copper,
very flexible,
capable of,
high currents,
very low resistance.
And, you know, on the surface, it seemed like, you know, this is this is
a great way to make a speaker cable.
Well,
it turns out that they were really very poor speaker cables.
They were good at low frequencies
because of the very thick copper.
But he had these cables laid out individually on the floor. So there was
one black cable and one red cable.
And,
I brought those into the lab after the show. He says, you know, hey, we'd love love to have you test these. And so, okay. I'll
I'll I'll I'll go ahead and test them. But, you know, we had a discussion at the show,
as to, you know, this isn't this really isn't the way,
you should be building speaker cables. You shouldn't have this large separation between the two conductors because that, creates a large inductance and the inductance
rolls off high frequencies.
So,
bringing these into the lab,
I could
separate the wires
and watch the high frequencies roll off
half a dB or so,
and bring them back together
and
watch the high frequencies improve.
And then, even worse, if I coiled up
one of the conductors and then coiled up the other conductor,
that would roll off the high frequencies
even more. And then, depending on how I overlap those coils and which way the coils were wound,
I could change the frequency response of these cables just by the way I I put them on the floor.
Now,
not only were these
ordinary
welding cable
with fancy
snakeskin jackets on them,
but they were also $20,000
And for $20,000
you got a cable
that didn't really work very well.
Where you put the cables
had a big
impact on how they actually sounded
and how you laid them on the floor
made a difference in in how they performed. So you could spend $20,000
or you could actually buy a $5 piece of zip cord and actually have something that was a better cable
than this,
this $20,000
solution. Now I'm not saying go out and buy a piece of zip cord because obviously we can do
better than a, a simple piece of zip cord. But the point is that that piece of zip cord would give you a more consistent
response
than what we got out of those $20,000
cables. So, you know, we said, we don't want to be
a part of this in, in future trade shows. We will not be,
showing with your cables. So if you're gonna charge $20,000
for
a cable that doesn't work, we don't wanna be a part of it. You know, obviously we get heat from time to time from, cable manufacturers
when we talk about,
you know, we use the word snake oil for some of these cables. Let me give you another example.
In the early days of the benchmark DAC one, we had one come in for service and, it's got this
really fancy
USB cable
stuck in the connector.
And, you know, it's carefully wrapped up in the box.
But the USB cable absolutely
will not
unplug
from the DAC. And this is, you know, the A style connector, the doghouse shaped
connector.
And
there's no way you could get that connector out. It was in there. It was you put it in, and it's never coming out. You know, we talked to the customer, and he says, oh, you know, I I spent a thousand dollars on that cable.
You know, anything you can do to,
to,
get that cable out,
and salvage the cable, you know, I'd really appreciate it. At that time,
the DAC one was $950
and the USB cable
was $1,000
So,
we got a $1,000 cable stuck in the back of this.
And so, we
took it into the shop and one of the technicians very carefully,
unsoldered the connector.
And,
we put a new connector on the board,
and
serviced it under warranty and put the unit back in the box along with the customer's cable
and, sent it back to him and said, well, you know, send the cable back to the manufacturer.
Obviously, there's a, a tolerance issue here. This cable's not
made to,
USB specifications.
You know, it goes into certain
USB connectors,
and locks itself right in there. There was nothing wrong from a performance standpoint with the cable that we ship,
with every deck one and every deck two and every deck three.
They're generic
USB cables,
but we know from testing
and know from running
jitter tests
and
running
all sorts of
different measurements,
that those cables,
work
flawlessly
even though
they're, you know, a $5
USB cable. You may have,
some USB inputs that are sensitive to jitter,
not on a benchmark product, but you may find products that do.
And and so certain cables and different,
cable lengths,
USB cables
possibly could make a difference. I've never actually seen
any,
solid measurements that that show that, but,
theoretically, that that might be possible. But suffice it to say that the $5 cable that we,
ship with our products,
USB cable,
there's nothing special about it. It's it just meets
USB,
standards as far as data transmission,
bandwidth, and and so forth. And that's just a
a stock USB cable, and that's all you need
on a
benchmark deck. You don't need to spend a thousand dollars on a cable that's gonna get stuck in the jack on the back of the unit.
Now we had another
deck one
come in,
that had a similar problem.
This one
had
an aftermarket
headphone cable
stuck firmly
in the
headphone jack on the front of the unit.
And again, there was no way you could pull this thing out. This is a quarter inch headphone jack. How in the world can a quarter inch headphone
jack get stuck into,
into the headphone jack? And
and beautiful cable,
you know, gold plated,
plug on the end, really beefy,
quarter inch plug. Beautiful piece of cable to look at. And, of course, it had been unplugged from the headphones so they could send it into us.
And
no way to get it out. So, again,
technician
unsolders the connector,
removes it from the board, put a new connector in,
service this under warranty, and and,
send the customer's cable with the connector still attached,
back to him along with this repaired
deck one. What the issue there was is,
they had taken a standard off the shelf quarter inch phone plug
and,
plated it with
very, very thick gold plating. You know, there had to be
some value at least in in all that gold that was on the,
on the connector, and it it looked
absolutely gorgeous.
But when you put a micrometer on it, you could see that it was well over
a quarter inch
and,
too large to actually go into
most
headphone jacks. There's a lot of snake oil out there. There's a lot of
expensive cables
that don't work. Now let's talk a little bit about
the connectors that are on your speaker cables.
One of the things that you wanna avoid
are the spring loaded
banana plugs.
We've done a number of measurements
in the lab.
Whenever we've tried to measure an AHP2
with spring loaded banana plugs,
the distortion
is just about double or triple
what we'd expect it to be. And it turns
out that there's more distortion
generated across
that spring loaded banana plug
than there is from the entire
AHP2 power amplifier.
A simple solution
is
to use a
locking banana plug. So, these plug in, and you turn the
knurled
screw and and they tighten up internally
with four individual
fingers, that makes a very
reliable,
very low impedance
connection.
The other thing that we found is that
spade lugs,
can be
very unreliable. If they're clean, if they're perfectly flat, and you tighten them down sufficiently
in the binding post,
they work wonderfully.
Problem is the minute you bump the cable,
they tend to loosen up. And so,
after
bumping them multiple times,
it's very common to find them
loosened up to the point where they're
producing more distortion
than the entire
AHP2 power amplifier.
So connectors
are extremely important.
Connectors
are,
to a large extent,
what determine
the reliability
of your cable.
So,
we always use
Neutrik
XLR connectors.
We use Neutrik
SPECON connectors,
and it's because these are proven
connectors that are that are used widely in sound reinforcement
applications
where where systems are being put up for one night, torn down, moved to another city, put up, taken down.
And so day after day, these systems are are deployed and and taken down, and these cables are unplugged and plugged in,
and they're stepped on and and all sorts
of, abuse.
They're designed to take that abuse and give you good reliable connections. In our own facility here, we use the Neutrik connectors and
canary
cables in all of our test stations. And so,
maybe twenty, thirty, 40 times a day, we're plugging in and unplugging,
testing the next piece of gear, plugging that in, unplugging,
testing the next piece of gear, plugging in, unplugging,
and about once every
five years we have to replace
those
cables.
They're that durable.
They can go through that many cycles.
But, eventually,
the the plating on the XLR
pins
and the XLR
sockets,
wear out.
And
and that's usually what
determines end of life for those.
Now the canary cable,
that that we're using on those
is surprisingly durable.
That's a that's a four conductor
star quad cable
with a braided shield
and
a number
of reinforcement
strands in there.
Turns out it's a super durable cable.
We don't find that those fail
at our test stations.
What what does eventually fail are the connectors themselves.
Now on the back of the AHP2
power amplifier,
you'll find that we have, Speakon connectors.
And, we have binding posts as well, so you can use the binding posts. But we actually recommend for for best performance that you actually use the, Speakon connectors.
And the reason for that is that those are
high current,
connectors.
They're they're very durable.
They
have a wiping action when you put them in and and lock them in place. They they stay locked in place.
And,
these are industrial connectors that are used in sound reinforcement
systems used for very high power,
speakers for line arrays and and so forth. So if you go to a concert,
every single speaker you see
in that line array is
is connected with the Speakon connectors.
So,
very proven reliability
and very low impedance
connections.
No measurable
distortion
across those,
those connections.
So,
that's what we recommend
using.
And and if it had been my choice, there would have been no binding posts on the back of the AHP two.
I had the sales department twisting my arm saying, no. No. No. We've got it. We've got to put binding posts on there. Everybody's got binding posts. So
so you can thank the sales department for,
the binding posts on the back of the AHP two, but
my personal preference would have been to leave those off there entirely.
But the whole
point of
benchmark cables is to give you
a reliable connection
that gets the signal,
from point a to point b with maximum
integrity,
so
without loss of quality.
And it doesn't take
a $5,000
cable or $10,000
cable or $20,000
cable to do that. It takes
well designed cable,
which is
readily available.
We use the Canari
star quad cable, for example.
Also, we use coaxial cable for
the coaxial
connections,
the SPIDIF coaxial connections.
There's all sorts of wonderful
75 ohm cable that's readily available that's,
that, you know, all of the specs are are available to us to look at.
And so we're selecting,
the best materials
and,
and giving you a cable that's
reasonably priced,
that reflects the actual
value of the of the cable and the connectors and the labor that it takes to put them together.
So I hope that helps avoid,
some of the pseudoscientific
claims about cables.
Take a practical approach to it.
Don't look
at a cable as a way to tune your system.
Look at a cable as a way to reliably
get a signal from point A to point B.
Again, remember,
I wouldn't use a cable
to tune a race car.
I use the cable
to get the signal from the sensor
to the engine control unit
and,
and then tune the engine control unit to, to tune my engine. So,
I hope that helps,
and, I hope that,
in the long run can save you some some money and some frustration
when you're trying to put together a great audio system.